applehead

everyone needs a .....

Bookmark. Unless of course you only read magazines.
Or the newspaper. In which case chocolates never go astray.

If you have some card weight stock ( or a cereal box or similar), a pretty bit of paper, glue and some flat elastic  then you can make these simple bookmarks fairly quickly. Perfect to pop in a Christmas card for the teacher or tuck in with a book for Dad. Easy for children to make as well - they can use scissors to cut it out and all you have to do is cut the slot.For younger children you can do all the cutting and they can do the pasting and decorating.
Click on the link for the template.
Download bookmark_folded_3_up.pdf

It looks like this

I used a cereal box with an old music score cover pasted onto it. Kids artwork makes a lovely gift for grandparents. You could also use plain cardstock and decorate it after if you like. Get the kids to draw on it or perhaps make a collage. Fabric, ribbon, photos- as long as the result is not too bulky and fairly flat.
(Just keep in mind the end purpose. After all nobody wants their book filled with bits of glitter, no matter how pretty it makes the bookmark look!)

I find PVA works well - my favourite trick is to use an old plastic card to apply glue- sturdy, reusable and spreads the glue out in an even thin layer.Nice.

I printed out the template and glued it to the back. Make sure it is glued on securely. Cut around the bookmark with a craft knife and cut out the slot. I find the easiest way is to punch a small hole each end and then cut between them.( I have a Japanese hole punch drill thing which I couldn't do without. For some reason I have a lot of holes to punch. In all different sizes.)

Just use the knife if you prefer. Run a paper folder or a blunt edge along the dotted line and fold.

Cut a piece of flat elastic - about 35cm length for average size books or 40cm if you like to read great big tomes. Fold the elastic in half and thread through the slot.A dab of glue under each end and tape the elastic in place. Cover the inside of one half of the book mark with glue and press firmly shut. If you prefer you can use double side tape around the inside edges instead.Be sure to put a piece of double sided tape across the middle where the elastic threads through to help keep it secure.

Wipe away any excess glue and let it dry for about 15 min. Place under a heavy weight ( a pile of books works well!)- overnight if you have time or at least until the glue is dry.Decorate at this point if you haven't used a decorative paper.

To use, slip into book and loop elastic around the book.

Note:personally I prefer to use black elastic but of course I haven't the faintest idea of where my stash of black elastic is hiding. White elastic reminds me of knickers. Not that I have anything against knickers.In fact, I quite like the sound of the word.

Knickers, knickers, knickers.

Happy reading.

mary, mary, quite contrary...

how does your garden grow?.....
no silver bells here but a pattern for a lovely ruffled flower instead!

I had to scan the flower as my camera is doing odd things at present ( more about THAT another post) so it looks a little flattened.  A very easy three rows (after the foundation ring) and there are numerous ways of adapting it. I am going to use it on a crocheted strip to make a simple wristlet for a few little girls that I know... I have also used it to make a plain parcel look a bit prettier.....(  8 ply wool and 3.50mm or size 9 hook were used to make this flower)

Double ruffled flower

To begin:making a chain of four and join with a sl st to form ring.

Rnd 1:Ch 2 ( counts as 1 dc) and then work 11 dc into the ring. ( Alternately you can use the base adjustable ring method).

Rnd 2: Working into the front loop only of each dc, work 1dc, 4ch , 1dc

The photo on the left shows the front of the flower with the first layer complete. The photo on the right shows the back of the flower after the first layer. You can see a "ring"of  loops in the centre- this is the back loops of the dc's,that you will work your second layer into.

To make it easier to see I have used a different colour for the second layer.

Note: If you want a single ruffle flower stop right here!

Rnd 3: Working into the back loop only of each dc of the first round,work 1dc, 6 chain, 1 dc.

Front view on the left, back view on the right!

End yarn off leaving approx 15cm tail to pull through last loop.

You can leave the flower as is or add a crochet centre(  instructions below). You could also embroider the centre on ( a good way if you want to add a centre and attach it to something at the same time), make a fabric centre or perhaps get creative with a button or beads!

Crochet centre: Ch 3, *yo , insert hook into third ch from hook,yo, pull through 2 loops( 2 loops left on hook).Repeat from * 3-4 more times (depending on how big a bobble you want for a centre), yo and pull through all 5/6 loops on hook. End yarn leaving a 10 -15cm tail. Draw the tails through the centre of the flower and either tie off with the flower tails, or use the centre tails to sew the whole flower onto whatever you are using them to decorate.

I hope this last bit makes sense- it was impossible to photograph or scan. It is easier that it sounds - if it is just too confusing use one of the alternate centres suggested above.

If I can get my camera to cooperate and find a willing model I will take a picture of the finished flower wristlet tomorrow.

By the way, as soon as I can remember which book this pattern came from, I will post the information.

flower power...

Every year, at the beginning of December, my parents would take my sister, brothers and I into town to see the David Jones Christmas windows. For me it always marked the start of the Christmas season....on Saturday evening, we decided to take Rose and Charlotte into the city for their first look at the windows. I'm not sure who was the most excited: the girls or myself! This year the windows are based on well loved Christmas carols acted out by a host of marionettes. Above each scene is Santa, holding the strings "making" the puppets work. My favourite was the Twelve days of Christmas window with the beautiful pear tree, complete with partridge and two very chic looking "French" hens!  Afterwards we stopped for gelato as a special treat to round off the evening. Definitely the start of a family ritual.....

Now that I have moved into a Christmas frame of mind I have started ( amongst all of other on-the-go projects) to think about what I might make for various family and friends.
One of my gift ideas calls for some crocheted flowers so I have started trialling a few different styles. After the response to the 100 flower scarf pattern ( I have seen some of the results here and there- so lovely to see) I thought that I may as well pop up the patterns as I go for anyone who might want to use them.

Here is crochet flower # 1...the basic five petal flower....( I have used an 8 ply wool and 3.50mm or size 9 hook)

#1 Five petal flower

To begin: Chain 5 and join with Sal st to first chain to form ring. ( if you prefer use the base adjustable ring method which results in a perfect centre every time...I use it for everything now...)

Round 1: Ch 2 ( counts as 1 dc) and work 14 dc into the ring, sl st to beginning chain.

Round 2: *Ch 4, skip 2 dc, sl st into next dc: repeat from * 4 more times ending in last stitch in base of beginning chain.

Round 3: in each Ch 4 space work 1dc, 4 tr ,1 db tr, 4 tr, 1 dc: join with a sl st to first dc.

End yarn, leaving a tail for stitching or joining if desired.

(Note: Instructions are British/European so for US/Canadian use sc for my dc and dc for my tr.)

The great thing about this flower is that you can stop after the second round and have a small very basic flower like the blue one on the left...I have used these on hairclips (and I'm sure that there will be few of those in Christmas stockings this year!)

The pink flower on the right is made in a Manos Del Uruguay Handspun Semi Solid kettle dyed yarn, one of my favourites( you should see the colours!) with a slight variation in round 3: into each 4 ch space I have worked 1 dc, 9 tr, 1 dc to give a more rounded petal shape.It had been worked on the same size hook so it is only the wool that makes the difference in size.

Calendar update.....almost there with my special dates pages and my April pages for the other calendar should start arriving at their new homes this week....hope you all like them!

Note added 27/11/2010 - there is now a very tedious and not very well shot video tutorial of this here

 

How to ....make jeans into a skirt!

By request here is the how to for the girly twirly skirt. As always drop me a line if I've left something vital out or something doesn't make sense and I'll correct/add it in. And I'd love to see a photo of any finished skirts! (double click on any image to enlarge)

step 1
measure from top of waistband to just below the end of the fly seam - I have left about 2cm below .Mark the same distance all around the jeans- side seams and centre back seam are a good spot to measure and mark. If there are pockets decide if you are going to keep them on or remove them ( it depends how much gets cut off.) If you decide to leave them pin the inside pocket bag out of the way so that it doesn't get cut . If you want to remove them ,unpick them now as it makes for easier sewing ( less bulk).
Join the marks and cut all the way around your jeans leaving you with a "yoke " as in this diagram.
step 2
Just a pic of the backs so you can see how it looks!
Step 3
measure all around the bottom of the yoke -mine measured 62cm . Depending upon how full you want your skirt add somewhere between half again ( 31cm) or the same ( 62cm) .( If you want it really full double it)
This will give you the length for your first frill. I added 31cm to the original measurement of 62cm = 83cm. I then add seam allowance of 2cm.
Decide on depth of frill - again a personal preference. I have made my frill 12cm deep + 2cm seam allowance. Total 14cm. My frill will be 85cm x 14cm.
Cut frill placing pattern  on fabric as follows :

For the  Frill 2 , start with the length of Frill 1( in this case 83cm). Again either add half as much again or up to the same amount . (As before, for a really full gathered skirt  you could double it).Add 2cm seam allowance.I had to cut my Frill  2 in two pieces to fit it across the width of the fabric. You may be able to cut it in one.
Decide on the depth ( I made mine the same ie 12cm + 2cm seam allowance) .
If you want a third or fourth frill measure and cut as for Frill 2 ( using measurement of Frill 2 as starting point for three, and measurement of Frill 3 as starting point for four and so on.)

Step 4

Stitch the ends of each frill together to make a tube ( two seams if you have cut your frill as two pieces)
Overlock raw edges if desired ( I also overlocked the cut edge of the jeans.)
Step 5
Run a gathering stitch 6mm in from long edge and then another row of gathering directly below this at about 8mm. Divide and mark the frill using pins  into 4 sections. Pin gathered edge of  Frill 1 to the jean top , right sides together matching the 4 maker pins to the side seams, centre front and centre back. Gather in frill to fit , easing gathering to sit evenly. Sew using 1cm seam allowance.
Optional: if you wish you can top stitch along the join seam of each frill flipping the seam allowance up and  stitching  on the upper frill side of the seam ( see diagram to understand this gobbledy gook). This gives a neater flatter  and I think more professional finish (and I have always been partial to a bit of top stitching).

Step 6
Repeat gathering and joining as above for Frill 2 to the bottom of Frill 1.
Continue adding more frills if desired in the same manner until desired length reached.

Step 7
Here is my skirt with two frills attached. When you have reached desired length you can hem the bottom frill or add a smaller ruffle as I have done. The other option is to trim with ribbon, lace or whatever takes your fancy.
Step 8
I cut down the side seams of the cut off legs and then cut strips, all the same width ( although not length) to use for the bottom ruffle.
Step 9
I sewed the strips together to make a piece that was half again as big as the measurement or my Frill 2.

Step 10
The ruffle was  overlocked and gathered in the same way as the frills -if you want to turn a small hem on each long edge do it now : I left mine with just an overlocked edge. The ruffle is sewed on with the wrong side against the right side of the skirt ( ie i pinned the ruffle right side facing to the outside of the skirt). Take a look at the close up of the hem to get an idea of what this looks like.
Step 11
A view of the inside of front of the skirt
Step 12
A view of the inside of the back of the skirt.

Your skirt is now finished!
You can, of course add trims to the top of each frill if you like - stitch a ribbon or braid along the join of each frill.
I have made a rosette from strips of overlocked denim and floral babycord, gathered and stitched together. I added a circle of contrast floral and stitched the whole thing on ( should have put it over the paint mark! nice one!)

You can play around with different width frills or add a split to the bottom frill or two to give a flamenco feel. I am going to be a bit adventurous with the other two so I I'll post pics when they're done!
Happy sewing!

100 flower scarf pattern

Thank you to everyone who took the time to post a comment about the 100 flower scarf. I was just amazed at the response and thrilled to win a prize ( who doesn't like to win something especially a new book!) . Quite a few people asked for the pattern so i have put together a quick "How to" . It really is a simple flower...lots of them...then sewn together in whatever manner pleases your aesthetic sensibilities. A great way to use up little bits of wool  and an easy way to fill in a few minutes here and there during the day. Use them as a trim or make up a bunch for a happy flower pin....incidentally my scarf only uses 74 flowers but you can use as many or as few as you care to make. As far as wool types/ply goes - different plys will obviously give you different size flowers. The same applies to different fibre types. If you want a very regular , uniform look , try to stick to similar weights. I think that a scarf made up of all different weights and types would look kind of like a crazy patchwork ...fun, fun ,fun(please let me know if there are any mistakes/obvious steps left out!) Note: Instructions are British/European so for US/Canadian use sc for my dc and dc for my tr.

Little flower

special abbreviation: Tr2tog= work 1 tr into each of next 2dc until one loop of each remains on hook, yo and through all 3 loops on hook.
have fun!

Make 6ch , sl st into 1st ch to form ring or see photo for making an adjustable ring which works beautifully - I use this start on everything requiring a ring of chains to begin- no more holey center's!

image 1 - dc worked onto adjustable base ring
image 2 -completed ring of 15 dc
image three - flower with two petals

2nd round: [3ch, Tr2tog ( see spec abbrv above) over next 2 dc, 3ch, sl st into next dc] 5 times placing last sl st into last dc of previous round.
Fasten off.

image 4- forming third petal.
image 5- finished flower.

Arrange flowers and stitch together to form scarf.
I stitched the flowers together in pairs and then stitched all of the pairs together, with each pair off center to give the scarf a wavy look. I used sewing thread - you could use the tails of the flowers if you wish or thicker embroidery thread if you want the joining stitches to be a feature.

Add fringe/pom poms/etc if you want and then send me a photo! I'd love to see any results!

hey presto! a little felt box

Found a use for some of the felt that I made years ago - fun to make and only took a little over an hour.... of course it's from another of those wonderful Japanese zakka books that I so adore. This one had many beautiful felt things in it. I will post an image of the book and the relevant details tomorrow. Just wait  until you see the little shoes.......

Here is a quick run down on how -to -make ...

Cut a piece of felt as in above diagram ( scale up or down as you wish)

Fold so that the 15cm edges are together and stitch the 9cm sides using a simple whip stitch or blanket stitch ( or something more elaborate if you are brave and adventurous)

"Open" box and sew two bottom seams using same stitch . The 9cm side seam will sit at the centre point of the 7cm bottom edge ( this makes more sense when you have the box piece in your hands, truly! If this sounds all too confusing, take a look below at the lining piece flattened after sewing the bottom seam. )

Cut the lining piece ( if you are going to line it) allowing an extra 0.5-0.8cm seam allowance around the outside edge. I have just folded the pattern piece I used for the outer felt shell to make it easier to cut.
Stitch as for the felt box either by hand or machine.

This is what it looks like when you have flattened  the  'box" to sew the bottom seam.

Put the lining inside the felt box with right sides together and side seams matching.

Turn the edge of the lining over to the same height as the felt box to neaten raw edges and use a running stitch ( or your choice) through both layers to secure.

There you go ..a simple yet pleasing box to put things in.
And take things out of.
Just like Eeyore and his useful jar that Pooh gave him for his birthday. Not suggested for hunny though!
Let me know if this is a dreadfully unclear pattern and I will make any necessary changes.
Love to see a photo if anyone makes one.......